This is the third release of this ambitious sparkling from the Anderson & Marsh partnership (aka Eleana Anderson of Mayford and Jo Marsh of Billy Button Wines).
Intended to emulate the fine, racy, pure styles of Blanc de Blancs that they have always enjoyed, the pair sought out the coolest sites in the region. Premium parcels of hand-picked Chardonnay were selected from the Mayford and Dalbosco vineyards in Porepunkah at the cool southern end of the Alpine Valleys wine region in Victoria’s mountainous north east.
Released January 2023
The two vineyards were hand-picked and vinified separately. Both parcels were gently whole bunch pressed with minimal sulphur additions to juice followed by cold-settling overnight. The juice parcels were then racked with the inclusion of light, fluffy solids. The Mayford fermented naturally while the Dalbosco parcel was inoculated with a Champagne isolate yeast. At the completion of ferment both parcels were left on yeast lees for 6 months. Partial malolactic fermentation was utilised to introduce complexity but arrested to retain natural acid levels. The parcels were then blended, stabilised and tiraged. A portion of base wine was set aside as reserve wine for use in subsequent vintages. The wine was matured on tirage for 55 months in wooden bins prior to riddling and disgorging with a low dosage level of 3.75g/L sugar. The wine was sealed with stainless steel crown seal and given a further 6 months bottle maturation prior to release.
Just 170 dozen were produced.
Delicate white flowers, roasted almonds, citrus blossom and honey nougat aromas lift gloriously from the glass. Freshness and purity abound. Brioche, yoghurt, oatmeal and cooking spices give complexity. There is an ethereal lightness of step. It dances on the tongue, with creamy mousse, fine bubbles and focused acid line. Balance and delicacy to the end.
Released July 2023
Hand-picked and whole bunch pressed, the juice was separated into two parcels at pressing. The first, free-run juice was sulphured up to retain the bright fruit flavours, cold settled using enzyme then cool fermented in stainless steel with a selected yeast strain. Following this, the light pressings were filled directly to an old puncheon that was allowed to undergo ferment with wild yeast on full grape solids. At the completion of ferment, the puncheon was topped, both parcels were sulphured to prevent malolactic fermentation and matured on lees without stirring for 6 months. The parcels were then blended, stabilised and filtered prior to bottling.
100 dozen were produced.
Punchy, minerally and aromatic, this delicious white varietal from Galicia in Spain’s cool northwest (or perhaps across the border in the northeast of Portugal where is is known as Alvarinho), offers up beautiful citrus blossom, honey suckle and flintstone characters with mouth-watering texture and freshening limey acidity.
“Spain meets Alpine Valleys and it’s fireworks all around.” Jeni Port
The 2021 Anderson & Marsh ‘Parell’ Tempranillo is a collaboratively made wine from low yielding fruit grown by Brien Lewis in Merriang South. Split into two parts at harvest, half was made by Jo and the other by Eleana before reuniting the two prior to bottling. It is a gorgeous wine reflecting two different approaches to winemaking and bringing together the best of both worlds. It is a tiny parcel so move swiftly to ensure your share.
Spain meets Alpine Valleys and it’s fireworks all around. The result is an impressive wine combining both power and elegance. Intense scents of wet earth, dark berries, alpine herbs and licorice spice with gentle savoury overtones. Looks and smells dark and brooding. But wait, the palate lifts, the aromatics rise and elegance and poise rule with tannins fine and nimble. A top year brings tempranillo into its own in this part of the world. Bravo!
Gold – 96 points Jeni Port – Halliday Wine Companion 2024